A truly Malaysian dish

Thursday August 31, 2006

Nasi Kandar was brought to Malaysia 70 years ago from India. But it is now a 100% Malaysian dish with changes made to suit local tastebuds, writes CHRISTINA CHIN. 

Here’s an interesting fact – many consider the famous Penang nasi kandar an original Malaysian dish although its origins date back to the days of yore when Indian Muslim immigrants roamed the port and dusty streets of colonial Penang, lugging around heavy baskets laden with home cooked dishes and rice.  

Today, the humble nasi kandar has become a national favourite.  

Since the 1930s, the nasi kandar man has played a prominent role in the culinary history of Penang.  

The aroma of fragrant curries, vegetables, fried fish, beef and chicken would precede his arrival as he went from house to house, hawking his fare. 

Haji KK (left) instructing his worker on how to mix the ‘kuah’ for customers at the Chowrasta Cafe near the Chowrasta market on Penang Road in the 70s.

Born in India, the sprightly 71-year-old is a co-proprietor and founder of the thriving Pelita Nasi Kandar chain. 

“I was already operating a small shop at Tamil Street, which was the famous nasi kandar area then. Called Chowrasta Cafe (because it was located next to the bustling Penang Chowrasta Market), the outlet first opened its doors in 1956 but we only served breakfast and lunch. By then, the nasi kandar peddlers had already traded in their baskets for stalls.  

“Then in 1973, I invested RM32,000 (which was a considerable sum back then) to renovate the shop and turn it into a 24-hour restaurant serving only nasi kandar. 

“I believe we were the first nasi kandar outlet to have wall-to-wall tiling and probably the first in Malaysia to operate round the clock.  

“At the time, we were catering to the traders and fishmongers in the area who would come to fill their stomachs at odd hours when most coffeeshops in the area were already closed,” he said. 

“The outlet is still open today but it is run by my brother and his family. I have been serving nasi kandar for most of my life. Many early nasi kandar sellers were from the Athiyuthu village in India’s Ramnad district. I am from the village. We are well known for our culinary prowess,” he smiled. 

As nasi kandar began to garner a strong following among Malaysians, Haji KK and a friend opened a stall called Pelita Nasi Kandar at a corner coffee shop in Taman Chai Leng, Perai. 

With 21 outlets in Malaysia and one in Chennai, India, his son KK Sihabutheen attributes the chain's success to his father. 

“Despite being from the older generation, my father is very creative especially when it comes to the nasi kandar business. It was he who introduced our trademark 'Kuah Campur'. 

Customers usually request for us to mix the various curries onto the rice so my father decided to come up with a special kuah cooked with all the different fish, chicken and mutton curry pastes to create a consistent and unique curry that is served at all our restaurants.  

“The nasi kandar business may have evolved but the same age-old recipes enjoyed by the generations before are still used today. Perhaps it is only the presentation that is different,” he said.  

Indeed, most of the Haji KK’s dishes have not changed since the early days.  

The fragrant sambal udang (giant tiger prawns soaked in an array of spices), daging kicap (beef simmered in thick soy sauce), burung puyuh (tasty marinated quail), ketam masala (stewed crab with spicy masala curry) and kari kepala ikan (fish head curry) are just some of the popular items.  

Haji KK has served both former Prime Minister Tun Dr Mahathir Mohamad and current premier Datuk Seri Abdullah Ahmad Badawi, foreign dignitaries and prominent politicians but says that he is happiest when a customer leaves satisfied with his stomach full. 

“I still wake up every morning and look forward to serving customers at the stall. Sometimes I travel around the country to check on the quality of our food. 

“In the old days, we used the batu giling (hand roller-grinder) to make our curry pastes but now we use electric blenders.  

Charcoal has been replaced with gas stoves and small stalls have made way for spanking new restaurants but the taste of my nasi kandar will always be the same. 

“I am proud that I am still around to serve customers this Merdeka and it is my wish to continue spreading the joy of nasi kandar to more people all over the world,” he declared proudly. 

Sihabutheen said although the initial nasi kandar cooks were Indian nationals, the dish is 100% Malaysian because it has been adapted to suit local tastebuds. 

“We introduced nasi kandar in India when we set up our outlet in Chennai four years ago.  

“What makes nasi kandar unique is how the different curries are all mixed with the rice. Over there, people still serve all the dishes separately,” he said, adding that Pelita has expanded its menu to include other local favourites like the roti canai and mee goreng.  

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