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FROM BOMBAY TO KERALA.. A train ride of a life time.

by Fahmey Eusoff

For this trip to Kerala, I was determined to record my travel routine and snap as many scenery photos as possible to share with readers of E-Malabari. I hope that this travelogue would inspire those who have never been to India, to make a trip to Kerala in the near future.

My journey to India always begins in Bombay, the country's most dynamic city known all over the world as Asia's movie capital. Bombay is India's main business and entertainment center. Here you would find a jumble mixed of people from all across the subcontinent, even Nepal, Bhutan and Bangladesh. Converged in a city so populated, all are here to make a living. Although located in the state of Maharastra, Marathis make up a small number of the city's total population. 

View of Gateway of India. Mumbai

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Of course, where there is opportunity you would also find Malayalee people in Bombay or Mumbai as it is known now. For the same reason, unlike many Malaysians, I always land in Bombay instead of Chennai or other southern cities because I would head directly to the Keralite colony near the heart of the city. In fact, Bombay Kerala Jamaath Center is so close to where I was staying in Pydhonie. It is one of the busiest and most crowded place I have ever seen. Business transactions from all over India take place in these areas where there are markets, commercial centers, wholesalers, restaurants, courier and transportation companies are located.  Since I have no knowledge of Hindi, I could practically speak Malayalam on the streets with the shopkeepers and restaurant waiters. A Keralite would certainly feel at home in Pydhonie, Bombay. Please take note however, Bombay is the most expensive city in India. Hotels can be very costly here. Even the cheapest dirt place lodge can cost around Rs500 per night. It would help if you know someone or have a relative here, like me. 

From Bombay to Kochi is about 1800 km by train. For a Malaysian, that sounds like a great distance. Well, India is indeed a big country.  To compare such trip would be like taking a train trip from Kuala Lumpur to Chiengmai, Thailand. During certain period of the year, getting a confirmed seat on these trains can prove futile. It was untimely for me in this occasion because of it happened to coincide with the season for the Lord Ayappan swamis pilgrimage to Sabarimala, them traveling in stages for final congregation on January 12th. Pilgrims from as far as Jammu and Kashmir and other parts north of India were making the same journey to where I was heading. I found it comical how a few people in Malaysia asked me when I got home that it must had been exciting because I was in India during Ponggal season. To which I answered with a smile and to their dismay, "The Hindus in Kerala don't celebrate Ponggal but yes in Tamil Nadu". I think it is very surprising how Malaysian Indians, especially those who have never been there, to assimilate the whole of India to a mere state.

Train is the main inter-state transportation for the vast majority of India's 1.2 billion population. Even inter-urban trains are vital for a big city like Delhi and Mumbai. So important the contribution of railroad transportation to the country's economy, that there is a Ministry dedicated to Railway management in India.  

View of Taj Hotel, one of Mumbai's main attractions

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Despite the hassle to get a ticket, I always find train-ride the most thrilling part of my entire journey in India. Please do not be intimidated by what I said earlier about getting a seat. Actually, it is easy to check the reservation status on-line in the Internet. I did not find any flaw in the information provided at the Indian Railway website. You'd be surprised that the management is better than what we have at home.

Meanwhile, I tried a number of times to obtain a confirmed seat to Kerala at Bombay's Victoria (CST)_train station but only to walk back with a waitlist ticket. Not until someone told me that I could get a foreign tourist quota, provided I carry my Malaysian passport and go to the designated counter. Of course, as a foreign tourist, I'd have to pay a little higher than regular fare, perhaps some 50% more. But again my attempt was a failure. There was no empty quota for foreign tourists on the dates I wanted. Last resort, which I found out later thanks to tip given by another Keralite in Bombay was to go early hours to the main station one day prior to the date I wanted to travel. There is such a quota for last minute travelers called "TATKAL". Ticket is Rs50 more expensive and is sold against an identification card only. So with my cousin (who happens to be a Keralite) that morning, we braved the cool December morning temperature, when I was already down with flu, to stand in line to grab one of the 72 TATKAL tickets available. We were lucky and got a seat next to each other. Now, just be aware that I am a budget traveler, so I was traveling in economy class i.e. sleeper class. Unless you'd prefer to travel in First Class A/C, you'd find more chances of confirmed seats. Or better still, pay Rs7,000 to Rs10,000 and fly down to Kochi, Kozhikode  or Trivandrum on Jet Airways, Air India or Indian Airlines. But heck, I want to experience the life a typical Indian, so I prefer this mean of travel.

One piece of advice: prior to going to the train station, get reservation forms. You need to know the name and train number that you wish to take. All this information can be obtained from the Indian Railroad website. If you travel in Sleeper Class, I suggest you request for a "straight seat" which is a window seat.

View from a top of peak in Elefanta Island, an hour boat ride from Mumbai.

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Flying will take you at most 1 hr 45 min to Kerala from Bombay. By train, you'd reach Kasargod, Kerala's northernmost gateway after 24 hrs. But the journey across Maharastra, Goa and Karnataka states would be such a lifetime experience for most of us from Malaysia. You can opt to take the coach bus, which is a little faster than train, but I would not recommend for such a long journey. At least on a train, you can walk around and use the toilet. Make sure you bring towel, toothpaste, toothbrush, soap and a small cup for washing. The lavatory cleanliness was acceptable and ironically was cleaner than many Malaysian public toilets.

Food and drinks are prepared on board train. On board "Nethravati" or "Mangala Express" to Kerala, workers especially from Tamil Nadu, with bad Malayalam pronunciation would be selling vada, pazham poli (banana fry), tea or coffee. Lunch and dinner can also be ordered but I found the taste appalling.  A range of menu from chicken briyani to parotha and dhosa are available. I would pack food from home rather than buy on board the train, besides the prices sold on the train are somewhat costly than regular prices.

The Nethravati train No. 6435 leaves Bombay's Kurla station daily around noon and moves slowly down south. The station is quite a distance from downtown. To get there, you can get a taxi for RS200 to get there or hop on a local train. Nethravati makes several stops in major towns along its track in Maharastra State and you should enjoy the mountainous view during the day. Unfortunately, we would be crossing Goa and most of Karnataka during the night. If there is no delay, the train will reach Mangalore, the last station in Karnataka State before entering Kerala, by dawn.

A serene landscape as seen in a village near Kodungaloor, Thrissur district, Kerala. Swaying palms on windy afternoon.. makes you feel so calm and relaxed.

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On board this train, you are bound to meet fellow travelers whose majority, are Malayalees. Either working in Bombay area or Delhi, some may just landed from the Gulf laden with electronic goods or clothes.  You couldn't help but to open conversation with those sharing the same compartment. Be a little wary of your valuables. Some passengers bring along chain and lock for their suitcases; just a word of precaution. But I have never encountered any theft on board. Sometimes there will be policemen on board. Possible thefts may occur at stations, which I think is most unlikely, where outside traders or others could get on board to retail their goods.   

By the time we were reaching Kerala, you can see the change in vegetation and climate and of course more familiar faces and sign boards. It never felt so good to be at "home" again. December through April or May is the dry season, so it looked a little rugged and somewhat dusty. The rivers and streams were almost dried up. Unlike in August when I was here the last time, it was so green and wet then. However, December morning mist in Kerala was still cooling and refreshing.  I think this is the best time to come to Kerala. Yet it will take the whole day to cross the state, from Kasargod to Thiruvanthapuram. Yes, it is relatively a big state compared to Peninsula Malaysia. That reminded me of a neighbor back in Malaysia who asked me after I got home from Kerala some years ago if I happened to meet the owner of such restaurant in our town back in Kerala. So I asked him, "Where is the restaurant owner from?" My neighbor simply answered, "Well, he is from Kerala lah." I asked him then, "Which part of Kerala? Kerala is big like Malaysia." With a strange look, he said, "Oh is it? I always thought Kerala was only the size of Klang!" Now, whenever I reached Kerala on train I would always remember that incident and smiled to myself.

 

 

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